非物质文化遗产鉴赏——云肩

文章来源:人民美术网   作者:Eve.ch

Shoulder   Embroidery

Like clouds and clouds reflecting 

the sun after rain, the clear sky, scattered with rainbows, 

hence it is called Cloud Shoulder.

晔如雨后云霞映日

晴空散彩虹

故称之谓:云肩

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云肩, 是中国服装史上,平面与立体设计巧妙构思的典范。

Shoulder embroidery is a model of ingenious design in both flat and three-dimensional design in the history of Chinese clothing.

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云肩,在汉民族服饰文化中,是一种独特的服饰款式,装饰图案内涵丰富,符号的艺术语言,数字的喻意,文化底蕴哲理深邃。

Shouder emmbroidry, in the Han ethnic clothing culture, is a unique clothing style with rich decorative patterns, artistic language of symbols, metaphorical meanings of numbers, and profound cultural and philosophical connotations.

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云肩,汉民族服饰文化,融会贯通,升华入化为自己的民族服饰结晶。

Shouder embroidery is also the crystallization of Han ethnic costumes that absorb clothing culture, integrate and sublimate into their national costumes

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云肩是从早期神仙服饰发展而成的一种衣饰,这种云肩最迟在元朝时已经成为了普通人的衣饰。

Shoulder embroidery is a type of clothing that evolved from early fairy costumes, and this type of Yunshou had become ordinary person's clothing by the Yuan Dynasty at the latest.

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早期云肩多数形似翅膀坠于肩头两侧,不过从沂南汉幕壁画中的百戏图来看,也有围脖子一周的云肩。

In the early days, most of the cloud shoulders resembled wings hanging on both sides of the shoulders, but according to the Hundred Dramas in the Han Dynasty murals in Yinan, there were also cloud shoulders around the neck.

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云肩的形态多种多样,可以是薄如轻纱、柔软如云朵的材质,也可以是精美绣花、金银丝线点缀的华丽款式。无论是出席盛宴还是日常穿着,云肩都能为穿着者带来一种婉约、优雅的气质。

The shape of the Shoulder embroidery is diverse, it can be made of materials as thin as light gauze and soft as clouds, or it can be a gorgeous style adorned with exquisite embroidery and gold and silver threads. Whether attending grand banquets or wearing everyday clothes, Yunshou can bring a graceful and elegant temperament to the wearer.

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云肩也叫披肩,多以丝缎织锦制作,大多数云肩用四个云纹组成,叫四合如意式,还有柳叶式、荷花式等等,上面都有吉祥命题,例如富贵牡丹、多福多寿、连年有鱼等等。

Shoulder embroidery, also known as shawls, is mostly made of silk and satin woven brocade. Most cloud shoulders are composed of four cloud patterns, called the Four Harmony Ruyi style, as well as willow leaf style, lotus style, and so on, all of which have auspicious propositions, such as prosperity and peony, many blessings and longevity, and continuous fish.

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云肩,古代妇女披于肩上作为装饰的披肩。因多做成如意云朵式,前后左右各饰一个硕大的云头,因形得名,称作「云肩」。

Shoulder embroidery, a shawl worn by ancient women as decoration on their shoulders. Because it is often made in the Ruyi Cloud style, with a large cloud head decorated on the front, back, left, and right sides, it is named "Cloud Shoulder" due to its shape.

内容策划 Presented

策划Producer|余珍颖

排版 Editor|黄佳欣

校对 Proof|Eve

审核Reviewer | Eve

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